8 RECENT COLLECTIONS

For Anyone Who Kinda Likes Fashion

The fashion industry doesn't know what they're doing. But that doesn't mean the designers don't. Over the past few weeks, fashion enthusiasts have been given more whiplash than Miles Teller, and I myself have been, for lack of better words, losing my shit at some of the recent collections they have shown us. However hundreds of collections were being put out within the last few weeks alone, most of which I probably haven't seen, there is a lot of good to pick from, and surprisingly little bad (but the bad we got was bad). However, to make it a little easier on myself, I'm going to be picking collections mostly from the past week or so, largely Spring/Summer 2024, but also some collections I just really like and want to share. I also wanted to take the opportunity to discuss some collections/brands/designers that I haven't talked about, or haven't talked about enough, on the website yet, so no Iris Van Herpen, Dolce and Gabbana, or Vivienne Westwood. What I'm looking for in these collections are interesting designs, attention to their target audience, good color pallets, and attention to detail, i.e. texture, silhouette, styling, and overall appeal. I think a lot of designers are good at making their collections seem boring, despite having a lot to offer, I will be focusing on the ones that are both interesting and contribute to the culture. The last thing I want to say before we start is that Pharrell Williams did Louis Vuitton so dirty. Beyond being an overt copy of Loewe SS23, the designs he contributed to were not cute, not interesting, the colors in most of them looked like Minecraft and I was honestly just disappointed considering Pharrell's style, and Louis Vuitton's 2024 Resort collection. Kim Kardashian deserves an apology.

#8: Martine Rose Spring/Summer 2024

Textures, Androgyny, and Subtext. Designer Martine Rose came out with a beautifully explorative collection depicting his take on the versatility of youth culture, a theme that almost always circles around each season. However, what sets Martine Rose's collection apart from the masses is the contrast present between 80's workwear, modern streetwear, and 70's club attire. Vibrant-colored jackets help capture the aesthetic of neon nightlife as silky feminine shorts and tank tops nod toward the casual wear of today.

#7: Christopher Raxxy, Eternal Cathrine Collection, Autumn/Winter 2023

Taking a massive leap from the last, Christopher Raxxy showed off their niche in their recent Autumn/Winter 2023 collection. On theme with the rest of their recent collections, Raxxy created a collection comprised entirely of big, puffer garments in a variety of shapes and sizes. Whereas the last designer made a beautiful collection inspired by different subcultures of different eras, Raxxy created something entirely of their own. Rather than relying on trends or wearability, Raxxy's focus was entirely on its ability to create art. However, they go a step further than I feel most would dare, as making a puffer dress is not an easy feat. Raxxy uses pattern, color, and line, to make an already unique and encapsulating collection and make it that much more eye-catching.

#6: AMI Spring/Summer 2024

Most runways, though ones I usually don't talk about, tend to stay in the safe space, making almost exclusively dresses and suits, streetwear, and tailoring. And most runways as a result tend to blend into the masses simply for not making headlines with their designs. AMI was no such runway. Designed by Alexandre Mattiussi, AMI's 2024 collection stunned in a surprisingly accurate rendition of modern dress wear. Post-COVID, most agreed that the definitions of certain classifications of dress, i.e. formal, casual, dress casual, etc. and AMI perfectly captured that shift in their most recent run on the runway. Simple yet so elegant, formal yet casual, modern yet vintage, Mattiussi created designs that speak so profoundly to the current landscape of fashion. Inspired by, in his words, the "sexy" -ness of French people, the collection almost seemed like a glammed-up version of outfits you'd see worn around the office (probably one in France).

#5: Courrèges Spring/Summer 2024

Futuristic, sexy, and world-renowned, Courreges most recent offering to the fashion world is so perfect it doesn't seem like it's from this decade. Known for their futuristic aesthetic and consistently attention-grabbing designs, designer Nicolas Di Felice created a collection so beautifully alien its hard to tell what it is you're even looking at sometimes, specifically talking about the absolutely stunning rainbow mesh top that casts a colorful aura across the model's torso. That being just one example, the entire collection was almost entirely monochromatic, all white or all black, and tailored to the gods. With sharp angles and clean-cut line work, Di Felice oversold with these sexy, elegant, and out-of-this-world designs.

#4: BOTTER Spring/Summer 2024

Toning it down some since their last collection, even toned down BOTTER still manages to be as fabulously weird as ever. In a collection featuring Troll Doll head keychains, baby doll hand belts, and garments just barely close enough to suggest a jacket, BOTTER actually set out on the runway and turned some heads. Most notably, the use of different textiles weaving and overlapping to form the shape of a vest or a skirt definitely set them up for success, and with Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh's little creativity at a, maybe not all time, but definitely a new kind of high. With coats that look like they got turned inside out midway through putting it on and tank tops made of plastic tubing, this vibrant and essentric collection from Botter and Herrebrugh is one for the books.

#3: EgonLab Men's Spring/Summer 2024

Simultaneously classic and modern, designers Florentin Glemarec and Kevin Nompeix created a collection so effortlessly timeless and yet somehow still incredibly present in today's style. Designing with the purpose of returning tailoring back into pop fashion, the collection features multiple looks that feel like they were taken straight from the 1990s, which in hand makes them look incredibly modern in today's fashion trends. With what looks like a combo of 90s D&B, Versace, and Mugler, as well as taking major influence from 90s and early 2000s hip-hop fashion trends, EgonLab succeeded in making a beautifully diverse in appearance and and style collection.

#2 ERL Spring/Summer 2024

It's like 2001: A Space Odyssey had sex with Cinderella while Thom Ford and a Bratz Doll made out in the corner. Time and time again ERL continues to put out collections that make me question the legitimacy of almost everything. It's hard not to make 80s comparisons with the amount of glitter going on in this collection, but it seems just as apparent that this collection is set much more in the future than in the past. In fact, going off of designer Eli Russel Linnetz quote, it seems like this collection is meant to be a walk through the ages, rather than being set in one mood or theme all throughout. Taking inspiration from surfwear, space-age aesthetics, and ancient Rome and Japan, ERLs first catwalk was a bounding success. Eli stated, as do most of his collections, that this collection has a story; a group of American surfers moves to Italy after water levels have risen, and crash a ball, during which they raid closets and find what we see here. Glittery suits, shiny metallic pants, and a full-fledged Statue of Liberty, similar to Raxxy, ERL's focus in his collection relies much more heavily on storytelling and artistry than trends and publicity.

#1 Dsquared2 Spring/Summer 2024

A collection straight from the popular 2000s show "The OC", Dean and Dan Caten made their design influence abundantly clear from the pieces themself, to the stage setting and music, every aspect of this collection is torn straight from Y2K Orange County. With popular models like Gabriette, Alex Consani, and Julia Fox, you can very easily pick up what the Caten brothers are putting down. On theme, the collection featured multiple nautical-themed garments, from seashell bralettes to their "shark bite" ripped jeans, even the stage dressing in the background had the seashell-shaped lamp. What's more, the collection featured heavily on symbols and icons we would recognize as symbols from the time, on the more overt side; ripped-up "KISS" t-shirts, and more subtly the patterns and textiles they used (I know my mom has purses and shoes exactly like those at home that she got from Khols). However, similar to ERL, as well as brands like Gypsy Sport and BOTTER, Dsquared2 have never taken themselves too seriously, and continue to pump out their own ironic weird t-shirts and hats that we've all become all too familiar with now. Overall, Dsquared2 was easily my favorite collection thus far, and I cannot wait to see what they bring for the A/W season.

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