10/15/23

The first one I thought of was a brand called Moromoro, which presented its runway in Shanghai earlier this week. I honestly couldn't find a whole lot on their brand specifically, but from a viewer's perception, they rely heavily on whimsical and punk-adjacent aesthetics, using a lot of knits and worn woven materials to really encapsulate the early 2000s and late 90s whimsygoth vibe in their garments. However, what I want to highlight is their diversion from the norm. Throughout most of the collections we have seen these past few weeks, trends can easily and quickly be identified; blue cottons, brown leathers, florals (surprise), and a sense of quietness in contrast to other seasons that I've grown to appreciate. While a lot of designers have been focusing on the improvements of tailoring, class, and the elevation of streetwear, a complete 180 jump to the bagginess and noise of seasons following the lockdown, Moromoro emphasizes an almost petite, cutesy silhouette, something much more in likeness to actual streetwear trends. What's more, their continued focus on knits is nothing short of applaudable, as knits are very easy to miss, as well as something we didn't see much of for this upcoming Spring and Summer. Their use of knitted sweaters, hats, bags, and accessories sets them apart, both as a commitment to their brand identity without falling behind, as well as something a little bit more fun as runways revert to a more serious, drama-focused art form again.

 Not to say drama is ever a bad thing, however, as we saw drama and more in this year's Mugler S/S24 runway that I couldn't help myself but mention despite the sheer amount of discourse this collection has brought to blogs with a million times the viewership that mine does. Drama is something the runway has been lacking for some time now though, so it comes as no surprise that a collection as big and loud, visually, as Mugler was this year got the attention that it did. Starring celebrities like Angela Basset, Met Gala Queen Anok Yai, and, controversially, Paris Hilton, Mugler S/S24 featured long "legs" of tulle, shredded chiffon, and multiple sculpted pieces as seen here. Designer Casey Cadwalder told Vogue the inspiration was essentially sea life, a theme carried on by La Fame's Shangai runway, as well as his own disapproving fanbase who can't allow him to live outside of Thierry Mugler's shadow.  Based on the response recieved from this collection, I would say he was successful. Additionally, I would be remiss if I did not give credit to Miss Colin Jones of the Margiela runway. Working the runway is a concept somewhat lost in an industry obsessed with Paris Hilton features, and many fans and non-fans alike of Maison Margiela gagged at the presence and drama that Colin brought to the runway. Though some critics were reserved for the obvious attempt at some of the male model's reliance on Balenciaga-inspired hunched struts, Margiela was stunned both by the energy they brought and at Galliono's refusal to put a single un-cunt garment on a catwalk. 

I did in fact save the best for last. A current discussion I have been having recently, prompted by Sarah Burton's replacement at Alexandre Macqueen by Sean McGirr is the lack of female presence in an industry assumed to be led by women. With powerful figures like Anna Wintour at the helm of the fashion industry, it's easy to forget that almost every leading fashion haus is led by, you guessed it, a white man. Granted most of them are gay but you can only use that so often. I must emphasize that this critique is not a dismissal of the artisan crafts brought to the table by many male creative directors, but only to open the discussion for a significant lack of diversity found within such a diverse industry. However, there is one woman who has been going and hopefully doesn't stop anytime soon; Miuccia Prada. Creative director of Miu Miu , obviously a personal favorite, and co-creative director of Prada after Raf Simons stepped in in 2020, Miuccia Prada has been proving herself capital T capital I capital G The It Girl of fashion hauses since 1988. Other top hauses like Chloe, Chanel, and Fendi continue to be creatively directed by Chemena Kamali, Virginie Viard, and Silvia Venturini Fendi in that order, but for the sake of me getting to talking about Miu Miu, I am focusing on Miuccia for now. Originally started Miu Miu inspired by her own wardrobe, Miuccia Prada's Miu Miu has been a niche style in and of itself for years. Hearing a fashionista of today say something is "Miu Miu coded" is less than a rare occurrence, and if anything proves her relevance in fashion, that certainly does. Single-handily bringing ballet flats, Barrett lenses, and essentially office attire into style for this generation, Miu Miu's most recent collection in New York Fashion Week is no such oddity. Continuing to toy with the viewer's perception of scale on the model, Miuccia featured big chunky belts on low-waisted skirts paired with fitted knit sweaters, keying into the 2010s 9-5 office worker wardrobe. "Bringing down the curtain on a confusing and emotionally fraught season, it took the great Miuccia Prada to give such a coherent, empathetic and confidence-building show for women, by a woman." - Sarah Mower for Vogue, 2023.